AnonymousHi, I have a Viking 6570. It seemds to have some kind of elec problem.My 1st one I have used since the 80's.The machine light comes on when plugged in. I have kept it clean but have used it alot. Repair people have not been able to fix it.I then got one off of ebay and it has been fine.I had it tuned up when I got it.I tried the newer foot on older and it still wouldn't work,just light does. ( and vice versa).
OK,now the second one has gotten a hitch in the startup of pushing on the pedal, but you could push the wheel and the motor would start. And as of today the light comes on only on it too?? Would any of your videos help me on this? I am pretty mechanically inclined and have access to tools( elec,etc). Thanks for your time, BD. HI!I've just found an old Husqvarna 21e (I have a 21a before and I love that machine!). There is a problem however.
The reverse and stitching length adjustments doesn't work.When I press the reverse button, the button moves in but never comes back out again. It feels (and looks) as it is loose.
There is no tension at all. You have to pull it back out again.When I turn the stitching length dial it turns but nothing changes.I tried to make a little video that shows what's happening on the back end. You can see it here I tried to compare it to my 21a but they doesn't look the same.Any ideas?Thanks in advance! AnonymousI purchased a used VIKING 2000SL site unseen for my daughter. The booklet that came with the machine says it's a model 6430 but the plate on the bottom of the machine says model 6000.
The handwheel is VERY difficult to turn. When plugged in, the light goes on and I can hear the motor humming as it attempts to turn but that's all. After looking over your videos, I had the courage to open up the side panel and have a look. The drive belt that goes from the top pulley down to the pulley (by the bobbin winder mechanism) seems kind of loose.
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Is there an adjustment for tightening this belt? Is is difficult to change the belt? This machine also has problems with the buttonhole selector button and the reverse feed button but after following your videos, they have loosened up slightly. I'll keep working on them. Will 3-in-one oil work as a lubricant? I have a viking 5610 machine that I have owned for almost 40 years.
I bought it brand new when I was 16 and it's the only machine I've ever owned. Wondershare for mac torrent. It has been a great machine but in the last several years it has had what I can only call 'timing issues'. If I sew over anything with bulk - or sometimes for no reason at all, it seems to catch inside the machine. The only thing I can do it to take it apart behind the bobbin (sometimes wasting a half hour or so), and manually turn the black plastic casing on a gear until, through trial and error, the threads will interlock again. Then I have to put the whole business back together again. This is becoming very old, as my time for sewing is very limited.
I took it in for repair and I swear all they did was the same thing I do over and over again as I sew. Is there a replacement part associated with this problem that I could lead a repair person to that would actually solve my problem for good? AnonymousHi,I shifted cam gear on my Model 6030 (huge thanks for the video!) but ended up with the zig-zag out of sync, i.e. Needle doesn't reach it outermost sideways position until it's well past the needle plate and down in the bottom position (which also means that it makes a sideways sliding through the fabric - ouch!). The cam lobes lift and releases about 45 degrees too late.Cam lobes are however exactly in line with the lobes on the pattern cam wheels, so the cam gear as such should be OK.I must have shifted position of something else when I fixed the buttonhole-wheel (and THANKS for that video as well!!!)- the follower to that wheel got out of position and fell down into the machine - took quite some time to get in in position again.)Any ideas on how to adjust? (other than trying to adjust the cam followers)Thanks! I bought a Viking 6460 second hand a few months ago.
I had it serviced and they fixed the skew needle alignment. After that it worked like a dream until now, after 2 weeks of not being used. I tried to swap cams and the cam no longer secures into place.
I can feel the pegs get 'stuck' into the gaps but when I press the cam in it no longer clicks in. I tried pressing and turning the selector dial at the same time but that doesn't work. Now with Blue selected the needle alignment is so skew that the needle hits the plate (hopefully this is due to no cam being present?).
When I looked at the cam mechanism I saw that there is a loose piece of oddly shaped wire at the base on the shaft the cam fits onto. The wire partially covers a gap or 2, despite me trying to rotate it a little to move it away from the gaps. I hope you can help me please.
The design of the mechanism requires that the travel distance of the reverse button is proportional to the stitch length. Thus, you have to push it a long ways to reverse a 6 stitch, but changing a 0 to a -0 requires (and thus allows) no movement at all. There is nothing wrong with your machine in this particular behavior.To oil that system you will need to remove the back cover. There are two Philips screws (PH2) up through the bottom, and a third just below the bobbin rethreading tension disc on the right end cap. Finally, there are the two 'asterisk-head' screws on the back.
Be very gentle because the plastic becomes very brittle with age and will break easily. I just purchased a 21e and I was wondering if you could tell me the difference between the two beyond the stitch selection. Specifically I'm wondering if the motor is s different size. My machine is the Swedish version and I need to get a transformer for it.
I understand the US version of the 21a has a 1.5amp motor. Coreldraw 2019 mac serial number. On the back of my machine it says 80w. If I'm doing the math right, that takes it from 1.5 amps to around.33 amps.
That doesn't seem right to me. Is there something I'm missing with this 220v machine? As for obtaining a suitable transformer, it's the 80 watt rating that is important, irrespective of the voltage and current values. You will only reach that 80 w rate when the machine is stalled by too heavy a load and the foot pedal is at max. Your normal consumption will be far less. I can assure you that a 100 VA (essentially equivalent to 100 Watt) transformer has served us flawlessly for 25 years now, driving our US version 6460 here in France. Stepup/stepdown transformers are 100% reversible - the required VA rating is the same, dictated by the wattage rating of the machine.
Good evening, I purchased a vintage Husqvarna Viking 21 2 years ago in the US. My question is whether this machine has the transmission next to the motor for slow speed operation. Above my bobbin winder on lower right side of machine is a small white knob that is attached to a steel plate which seems to want to change the white plastic gears inside.
When I try to change the gear by pulling this, the machine locks up and when I release it sews normal speed. My manual is for 21A and it shows a different bobbin winder with the transmission control on it, mine is different but I do have the same apparent 2 speed transmission as I find pictured in the 21A manual. On the Husqvarna plate on back of my machine it simply says Husqvarna Viking 21. Do all 21 series machines have the 2 speed feature? Thanks in advance, Patrick in Colombia. I picked up a Viking model 21A at an estate sale that Is in great shape.
From what I can tell everything is functional. (Turns by hand, etc.) Here is the issue.when I plug in the machine.power gets to the unit, light comes on.when I plug in the foot peddle.it starts sewing!!!! I took the foot peddle apart to inspect it and make sure that it wasn't making constant contact (the points, etc) and nope.it looks just like it should.I can not make it stop unless I unplug the foot peddle!Any ideas??????!